Nevill’s Expedition, 1949
A Grand Canyon River Journey
Note: This is a verbatim transcript of Frank Masland’s journal, which he recorded in 1949 during a river journey, one year after his first river journey, both of which were led by Norm Nevills, a well-known river guide.
It’s not clear what Masland intended to do with this journal. It seems to be mostly for his own personal record, but its detailed descriptions of specific hazards and features along the river could be of benefit to other rafters. It begins with mundane trip details and builds into a strong narrative flow. Masland uses short sentences, concrete description, and very few adjectives in his writing, not unlike Ernest Hemmingway, who also wrote about daring adventure at the time. It’s doubtful that Masland was emulating a famous writer, however. Most likely he was simply documenting one of his peak life experiences. In any case, his personal secretary typed up the manuscript into its present form, available for viewing at the Dickinson archives. To the best of my knowledge, this journal is being published here for the first time, after 76 years in storage.
I left much of the spelling as is, though I did correct a few words. If something seemed unclear or incoherent, I usually left it alone. Nor did I remove mundane details. Some of the jargon is obscure, and the paragraphs are very long, but I felt it best to leave it as Frank wrote it.
Tour guide Norm Nevills was a legend in his own right. There is a wonderful archive of his photographs at the University of Utah. Sadly, Nevills died in a plane crash in 1949, the same year that Masland recorded his river journal.
Curiously, in 1940 Nevills took Barry Goldwater on a rafting trip that so impressed Goldwater that he was compelled to presented a slideshow of his trip in theaters, often to “sold out crowds,” according to his Wiki page. Goldwater thus discovered he enjoyed public speaking to such an extent that he decided to enter politics.
Nevills was the first to popularize rafting on the Colorado River. In his day, traffic on the river was extremely sparse. Today many people raft the Colorado. There is even a Facebook page for those interested in rafting this river, said to be one of the most exciting river journeys in the entire world.
If you would like a taste the excitement of thrashing about in turbulent waters, then you might enjoy this video clip of a rubber raft pummeling its way through rough waters:
From this same Facebook group is a detailed guide to how to row the Grand Canyon rapids, describing many of the same spots Masland described, only with diagrams.
As per usual, gathered at Art Greens. Art his usual self, gracious host and raconteur. Showed his excellent slides. Always interesting to wonder how group from all sections, from all walks will hit it off. Establishing first Impression. Awfully good to see Doris and Norm. Now old friends – they are great people. Usual “flying all over.” This year more than last with Jim on deck with his Beechcraft. Photoed Badger from rim after driving over “Navaho land.”
Left 9 A. M. July 12 with 45,000 second feet. Could not get to Lees due to flash flood up Paria – running bank full – had to load at Willow before Paria. Large crowd at send off – friends of Nance – of Norm – and our party from home plus Streators. Had floated and loaded boats day before.
Wen – Morn, Nance Streator, Ann Bisamen, Evie Mull.
Hat – Jim Rigg, John Mull, Myself, plus Sid McCulloogh through Badger.
Sandra – Frank Wright, Doc Eisaman, B111 Hargleroad.
Joan – Pat Reilly, Molly Maley, Eddie McKee.
We were accompanied by Bureau of Reclamation boats and crews as listed at back of book. Boats with 33 HP outboard Evenrudes. Lost much time at Badger and Soap due to Rec. party. At Badger Norm ran (oars) small R, boat through with not too much trouble – got good movie – then run large R. boat through under power. Got too far to right at head of tongue – then cut clear across and hit laterals on left – sternman’s fault, not Norm’s. Norm ran Badger first. Jim Rigg took Hat through and I followed with Sandra, then Pat on Joan. I ran dry. Badger had two large holes near tongue foot on right and small hole at head on left. Chief danger was possibility of getting too far to right in entering tongue as hole at right was big and dirty. Straight run through turbulent waves. Had looked forward to this for a year with mixture of confidence and questioning. Then in a few short moments it’s in the past – but what moments. Last year my first through Soap with Garth was my greatest thrill. This year Norm’s promise fulfilled. The question of the tongue, position, control and pulling out. My biggest question was whether I had strength to pull out. Figured I could hit her right and thought I knew how to control. Was lucky – waves broke right – so a dry ride. Managed to pull out in fair shape. But, oh that feel, that marvelous unexplainable feel when the power of the water takes over as the slide down the tongue starts – the water that seems to say “I kept quiet so you could row out if you wanted to. You passed up your chance – it’s now too late.”
Water today dirty all the way – surges – eddies – pools, never still, requiring much work by boatmen. Soap was a honey. Usual large wide tongue but several small holes in tongue. Norm ran first and hoped to break through to right at foot of tongue and run to right of turbulence but found laterals too strong and had to take turbulence. Came nearer to going over than I have ever seen him. 2/3 way through when strong lateral caught him quarter filled and loaded well down. Wright, Jim and Pat had good runs though Pat hit a reverse halfway down that stopped him and filled him. Daley brought big R. boat through, down tongue wide open. Tried to break through at foot, hit lateral, threw him completely out of water and spun him in air. Landed reversed but cut back and out okay. Sanderson came down in light R boat. Tried to break through – almost out when lateral hit him, threw him back into tongue where he spun a circle and ended headed up stream. Went two. thirds way down turbulence stern first, motor still running – going beautifully till motor conked out. Then took to oars and brought her in. Both boats came within a hair of overturning. Large boat nearly landed upside down when it spun In the air. When it came down it completely disappeared under wave. Landed right top and bottom Soap. Much like last year only more so. Of course, I vividly recalled my first ride with Garth. Camped at mile 12 1/2 for night on left, good sand beach. Located Norm’s record of same camp in 1947. Cicadas singing in Clump of Tamarisk. Camp should be named Camel Head.
July 13 – Under way to Sheerwall relatively mild. Here Stanton lost boatman on first attempt and found body in cave 2 1/2 months later. House Rock quite minor. No trouble until mile 25. Norm ran through to right of rock wave at head of tongue keeping well to right – rode center of tongue half way down then pulled out to left and sandy beach. Jim ran same way but didn’t pull out and landed below. I ran next, stayed as far left as possible, sliding over edge of hole at top and just past rock barrier on left. All well for four or five big ones then an unusually large wave hit but I swung stern into it in time – however no way to avoid next one which was even bigger. Thought it would probably break on boat but instead it exploded just as stern hit top of wave, boat stopped and slid down again bow first up stream. Boat had swung a bit to right so pulled hard on right oar. On third stroke another explosion wave hit and threw boat sideways out of rough water and pulled ashore at same point as Norm. Ran Sandra – First large wave threw boat far to one side – Norm said he thought it was going over, Norm and Frank both said they had never seen a boat slide down a wave upstream. Unfortunately, I simply ran into a completely freak wave. May have been kind of wave that hit Loper last week.
Norm took me on board together with Nance, Evie, Ann to run down to Hat which had landed well below around outcropping rock. Looked like a load but away we went. Terrific eddies and surges kept throwing boat back into rough water – could not pull excess weight to shore and rode through three very tricky rapids with five people aboard before could make shore. Norm handled very bad situation with great skill. I kept pushing on oars as he pulled to give added power but could not force boat through surges. From mile 25 to Vaseys where we arrived at 5:05 we encountered constant great difficulty due to surges, etc., even worse. At mile 27 we were carried almost into side wall on left by heavy surges. Repeatedly I pushed on oars as Jim pulled. R. boats came through in good shape. Have developed technique of cutting across tongue. At mile 25 green R. boat (Sanderson) jumped completely out of water. At mile 29 saw government party on top of rim. Landed below mile 29. Watched pack train come down to river. Made history, unfortunate history. Photo pack train and motor boats at same time. Never before possible. Have been building tail in from Little Colorado for past year to survey for Red Wall Dam. Camped tonight at Vaseys. But little left. Cannot reach stream. Only 75% of last years flow. Rock I went to sleep against now far out in river. Last night with R. group. Put up tent tonight for beauty parlor for girls. Started to pour and in 30 seconds Jim, Norm, Nance and I were Inside tent. Rained hard for 20 minutes, then photo – rainbow, everybody most enthusiastic about tent. This has been a very hard day.
Broke camp at Vaseys at 9:25 July 4th. The evening before most of group climbed to cave. I went to sleep Intending to make climb but woke up as lights reached head of taluslope. In morning group climbed to skeleton. I stayed down to nurse my eye which has been steadily getting worse since afternoon of first day when sand blew in it. Tonight it may be a bit better. Cannot stand light and have constant pain. Left R. boats at Red Wall Cavern. They were working across river at mile 32 and came over to say good-bye. Fine bunch – tough and know their stuff. Had an easy day. Stopped at “Unknown Canyon” after lunch at mile 38 1/2. Unknown Canyon Is about mile 40. Walked back canyon looking for water. Beautiful beyond words. Did much stereo work. Eddie and Nance attempted to measure Red Wall. Could not quite get up. Most of pools dry but tadpole pools found a way back – one pool was deep. from “Unknown” I spotted Loper’s boat on right bank at mile 41 South Canyon. Some of us walked down, others
came in boats later, passed rock campfire on sand beach several hundred yards above boat. Boat made of 1/4″ plywood about 18’ long, 5’6” beam – decked bow – arched decked stern – double stern hatches – outboard motor and parts still aboard. Open oar locks badly bent. Oarsman far too far forward, oarsman’s back bound to hit forward deck on full pull – oars too light – angle of oars too wide for good bite – rake and rise of stern too rounded and not high enough, Boat pretty badly damaged, especially rear hatches – inscribed Bert Loper, Grand Old Man of the Colorado. Born July 31, 1869. Died July 8, 1949 – mile 25. Photographed and read note left in cairn mounting oar, Note read as follows:
“Bert Loper “Grand Old Man of the Colorado” rowing his own boat, the Grand Canyon, was capsized in the rapid at mile 24.5 and lost his life. He was last seen by his passenger, Wayne Nichols, about one mile below the point of disaster, in very swift and turbulent water, eyes closed, making no struggle and apparently dead. His boat was found stranded and badly wrecked at this point, some 16 miles below the point of capsizing, by the under-signed. His boat and its outboard motor are placed here in his memory by his friends and companions.
Signed:
Howard O. Welty, Oakland, CA
W. Wayne Nichols, Holaday, Utah
Ralph Badger, Salt Lake City, Utah
Mrs. C. L. Fetzner, Pasadena, CA
Harry Aleson, Richfield, Utah
John B. Brenan, Salt Lake City, Utah
_______________________________
Broke camp Harding at 10:00 A. M. Drifted past rock hole after photographing same from shore and landed mile downstream where Norm, Eddie, Nance, Evie had gone earlier. Norm and Eddie climbed Red Wall on left for samples and measurements. That pair can really climb. This is definitely a scientific expedition. Adds much Interest. Writing this in shade of rock waiting for Norm and Eddie. Frank and Pat have gone down to Nankoweap. Deer signs – cat signs – pack rat signs. Have had no scarcity of clouds in sky. Beautiful shadows on Red Walls. Water dropping – Watched Harding Rock for two hours this A. M. Could see change taking place in curl. Less interval between breaks in slick as it climbed rock. Found perfect wooden steer head. Photographed. In shade of rock large ants with large bites – tossed one 20 times 5’ to 10’ out together with handful of sand. Each time as it landed It headed Instantly straight back. Silt In water must be 8%, terrific force. Would like to see about 30,000 by time we hit Granite Gorges. After Norm and McKee got back we drifted through numerous small rapids with Nance, John and myself at oars to Nankoweap. Lot of fun with John at oars, Built dam and rigged paulin (sic) over pond. Pond 10’x15’ x14″. Water hot but Eddie, Eve, Nance, Jim, Norm, John, Joe, Bill and I laid in it for hours. Under the paulin and in the water and with a bit of breeze we kept cool. Ann, Molly, Pat climbed to granary. While in pool Eddie regaled us with stories – in particular the Shiva Mesa hiatus.
Took photos around evening meal. Nankoweap rapids – few choppy tail waves opposite camp over rocks. As I sit here tonite writing, the waves are lapping shore with a gentle swish reminiscent of the Florida Coast but beyond persists the nightly drumming of the power of the river as it battles with the resistance of its rock strewn channel. Last night Nance lost her bed roll – tonight Ann. Suspect tomorrow nite it’ll be one of the boatmen. They are both good campers. Nance could run the river if she had the strength. She has the knowledge. Today’s ride is probably the most beautiful of all. The Royal Arches – Bridge of Sighs, the magnificent alcoves; fern festooned and neckless strung with great falls of travertine. Saw Blue Heron tonite – Big scaly lizard and a colored lizard (can bite). Arrived at 1:15 with Pat and Frank many hours ahead of us. Read “Kimm before turning in. John does reading. Does good job.
Left Nankoweap at 9:35. After breakfast walked back to Indian ruins found much broken pottery – then over to clift with Eddie for 500,000,000 year old worm fossils. Tarantula on my shoulder as I went to bed – brushed off and killed. Beautiful colored lizard running on hind legs near rim. Lazy day but plenty of excitement. No slowwater except a bit above Little Colorado. 10:10 looked over Kwagunt then I fisheyed with Norm. Thought would get good underwater pictures if I could hold on. Perfect run, too much so – Norm reached over and threw a bucket of water on me halfway down to make sure I got wet.
We entered Kwagunt on right – large hole left near head of tongue – small hole left. Jim hit left hole sideways and shipt much water. Frank took Ann on stern – large wave hit her at base of tongue and washed her over. She held on and rode Kwagunt beside boat. Has good nerve and cool. A good camper. Entered mile 60 on right. It was quite rough with strong current to left wall. Well to be on right, as left side pinched out against mean overhang. No bad holes. Many of the short rapids that are quite vicious were not here last year. There was a steady succession of them. Turbulence from one would lead almost to next. Boils, surges, etc., were mean and strong. Tail waves much larger than last year.
12:15 lunched at Little Colorado in the ledges – shade scarce but got heads under and the usual nap. No blue water ½ mile back – slightly more water than last year. Then drifted down to Tanners where we lay in shade of Mesquite While Eddie went back canyon checking on Unkar. Found salt marks and water ripples. Blue Heron ahead of us all day – Saw what I am sure was a sparrow hawk. Came down through Lava Canyon Rapid without difficulty riding center entire way – several other minor rapids then pulled Into Tanners Trail Camp at 6:40 with Navaho Point looming above us. Plenty of wood for tonites fire, whole tree on pile. Eddie, Joe and I slept a bit close to fire for comfort and tree burned and crashed in middle of nite. Tanner Rapids to sing us to sleep.
Wonder how loud Hanse and Soc and Grape are singing. Rode with Norm today. His anticipation – caution – control, wonderful to watch. He watches all the time observing each action and reaction. Things happen he cannot anticipate but at least he is always trying to. Magnificent today and tonite with wonderful colors, shadows and clouds. Up early with Norm banging the spiders. Everybody keenly alert to the fact that this is the big day. In the evening before we had signaled rim with no answer, lighted fire. Much concerned – first time in all trips. Norm described Hanse, Soc, Grape with his usual nerve shattering style and commensurate effect. Then John read from “The Rim” from Nankoweap to Bright Angel. The combination was such that several later admitted a fitful night and difficulty swallowing breakfast. This year I have the advantage – I’ve been there. Even Norm had never run the “big three with water so high and of course two of the boatmen had no idea what was ahead of them. We started the day with tautness obviously present.
Tanners was of course run with no difficulty. We landed right at 7:40, looked over Unkar then Norm started through. Tongue well to left with great hole flush along sheer wall at foot of tongue – essential to avoid – small holes to right. Held slightly to right of waves, landing well below on left. When Jim and I shoved off could not find John and report was he had gone down to join Norm so we started without him. Made good run but on way through tongue spotted John on right and Nor on left so we had to pull out 1/2 way thru and pick up John. Rocks kept us from shore so Jim and I jumped over, held boat while John waded out. We had nearly crashed several rocks that I fended off with my feet. A few miles below and mile 75 loomed ahead. I had memories of last year – that hole I’ll never forget. We landed on left – took a good look and ran through.
Tongue to right. Many rocks to left. Great high rolling waves on left which however had even pattern and we took nicely on our quarter then down thru turbulence and high tail waves pulling gradually left away from right wall. Bumped into small hole near bottom. 75 is always a good run. These rapids necessitated John sitting in bottom of cockpit. He contends there is nothing at all interesting in a rear view of Jim’s anatomical contortions. And then ahead of us we heard Hanse speaking to us. We knew we were approaching the first of the “big three.” We landed at left at 9:55. Norm spent at least an hour studying the Old Boy and decided to line. There was one running possibility through a small slick about 1/3 way out from left then working left but the chance was poor and not worth taking. It was almost certain that a tremendous hydraulic hole could not be avoided and below it were numerous other holes almost as bad. There was a total absence of pattern with nests of rocks creating great breaking turbulence. Along right wall there appeared to be a smooth stretch but it completely pinched out 3/4 way through with tall waves lashing wall. Norm’s decision was very wise. We lined for about 300 yards then rode balance. Hanse probably a mile long this year. Lining not too difficult but more so than Lava falls last year. Good experience for boatmen. Found hot clear spring near foot of Hanse. Much preferred river water of which I drank gallons today for today was really first hot one and our water was low. Some of party didn’t like river water so conserved fresh for them. Wind blew up stream, a blast of super heated air. Temperature must have been 130 degrees. Left Hanse at 2:45 and then away to find what Soc held for us. Long before we reached the Old Boy we could hear him roaring at us. His voice is all his own. The tone is affected by the narrowness of the granite that we have entered – the upper granite gorge – narrow, rugged and unscalable – we landed on left at 3:10. Only a short look was required to assure us that Soc was in a kindly mood. The great waves were there. The force and power were present but the tongue was clear cut straight through the center with only major holes at top on both sides. It was a marvelous ride – never could it be finer. We boiled right down the center – great towering 15’ waves, regular and with perfect rhythm and pattern. The first rapid we had encountered that possessed a pattern. It was so exhilarating everyone was singing and yelling as we drove through; the great granite walls close at hand. The force was so great the side boils and surges were carried through by the tongue instead of destroying its rhythm. Norm and Jim went through in a pair then Frank and Pat together. We followed this procedure in wide open runs.
At the foot of each the first two would wait in an eddy for the next two. System was a good one since Frank this year is a top boatman. Then on to the last of the “big three.” At 4:00 P. M. Grapevine was a different story. Soc roars, Grape rants and rages. We landed and looked over carefully. She looked plenty tough but we found It not too bad as we got into her. The tongue was clear. There was great turbulence – not as good a pattern as Soc but the way through seemed clearly indicated and we found Norm’s decision accurate. There were great holes and boiling rocks to right and left with plenty high irregular waves in center. The laterals were tremendous and most of water shipt was from them. We entered right of center avoiding great laterals to left then riding turbulence, then pulling slightly left keeping away from right wall. The “big three were behind us – there was obvious relief on the part of everyone, Much singing, calling back and forth and kidding. Ahead of us were Clear Creek – Mile 83 and Zoroaster. All interesting but not difficult. No water coming in Clear Creek. Tongue right center. Mile 83 had one great wave we rose over estimated at over 15’. Zoroaster a small hole at bottom. All these had a sharp drop at head of tongue, sharper, steeper than last year, the chief fall being at the point. The rapids were all behind us. Even between them this last day there was virtually no calm water. Tricky minors with surges and boils and whirls were everywhere. It had been a great day – never an idle moment – with the river offering a great variety of experiences. We drifted Into Bright Angel in best of spirits and landed at 5:45. Found Doris, Joan and quite a group awaiting us. There had been a large number of tourists. Lining Hanse had made us late and they could not wait for us. Our signals from Tanners had not gotten through. Doris had been terribly worried and had arranged for plane search. However at 11 A. M. next day Navaho Point reported seeing us line Hanse. We have had a wonderful group – everyone – Joe and Ann are great people, real friends. John and Evie among the finest. Eddie added immeasurably through his knowledge and willingness to teach us. I have never known anyone who more thoroughly knew his subject. Nance was more fun than ever – a great kid who if she had the strength would make a first class boatman. Bill Hargleroad, jolly, utterly unconcerned – knows Just how to run the river – in a nice way – kindness personified. Molly having the “great experience,” something unbelievable come true. Norm and his crew tops – afloat and ashore. And so here we are back again at Phantom. Joe and I are rooming together. My eye may keep me from making rest of trip. If it does, I shall be terribly disappointed. It does not seem better. Joe is wonderful. He phoned the hospital on rim last night to have medicine recommended by Dr. Jim Rigg at Grand Junction sent down. He is now down to meet pack train – a six mile walk to get medicine for me, That’s a friend. Dr. Rigg says he expects to come in tomorrow night. Decision will then have to be made.
Left Phantom July 20 – 8:45 A. M. Norm told me yesterday I could ride his stern from here on out – perfect.
Wen – Norm – Mary Abbott – myself with Worls to Garden Creek River House foot of Bright Angel trail.
Mexican Hat – Jim – Joan Nevills – Ruth Riggs
Sandra – Tro Anspaugh and plenty of grub.
Joan – Bud Anspaugh, Helen Kendall. Several small rapid then Horn Creek at 9:30 – Horn was in good form – Entered tongue in center, rode slightly left of center. Very large waves – a good thrilling ride. I fisheyed* (* head over bow lying on belly going through rapids, position I accidentally devised in 1948 [illegible] ) with Norm.
Then Granite rails at 10:50 – always tough – now tougher. Instead of going down right wall, as last year, ran a secondary left side in between several very large holes and rocks. It was tricky in that the course had to be exact. Could have run right tongue but would have filled and had trouble with island at foot, greatest surges, eddies and generally rough water encountered so far was at foot of Granite. We could hear Hermit’s deep bass and knew we were in for It. Arrived 12:20. Had lunch on left in shade of cliff. Hermit Creek is a pet peeve – always hot and slick – nevertheless, filled canteens – Norm spent an hour looking Hermit over and decided to line. He could have run It through great main tongue right & center but would have filled in several holes and had to run far below for a landing. Party would have had trouble reaching boats – Large tongue, holes both sides – hole at bottom (tremendous) and lower holes with great turbulent breaking exploding tall waves. Lined left side with considerable difficulty but great efficiency. Necessary to slide boats over rocks completely out of water. Carrled duffel (plenty of it) head to foot. Then ran on down to Boucher, arriving 5:30 where we camped literally in crevices in the granite. Walked back Boucher a mile to a good spring.
Canyon (was) narrow, doubling back almost to river. Beautiful and Interesting – Burros use it. Eye feels better tonight. Had to walk for firewood. Tea tasted of Hermit Ilme. Perfect sleeping spot – in a tunnel between cliffs by water’s edge. Sand damp and wind blew through tunnel all night.
July 21 – Pulled out from head of Boucher at 7:40. We had camped very close to head on left making hard pull clear across head to tongue on right. Ran slightly to right of turbulence – Took one heavy lateral aboard. Tall wave choppy and large – No serious holes but a good rough ride – A fine way to start the day. Drifted In relatively calm water to Crystal Rapid and Tuna Rapid, one right after the other. Both a lot of fun, much more so than last year. Each had a real punch and laterals broke in board. Mary is thoroughly enjoying them. States she has absolutely no sense of fear, probably due to complete confidence In Norm. She has been everywhere and states that nowhere is there such form and color (she being a renown sculptor and painter). We are camped between Tuna and the Dog Leg below on right shore on small sandy beach. We pulled in here so Norm could again go up on Tonto for flares – chutes, etc., dropped to stranded airmen. He and Jim, Pat and Joan left about an hour ago. They should be back about noon. We are probably at mile 100 1/2. They are tackling rim from angle that should be easier than last year and, of course, they know the way. The rest of us are keeping in the shade. Mary sketching – Bud photographing. Tro and Helen writing notes. My eye is worse today. I have a handkerchief pad over it under dark glasses, Glasses do not suit me – everything is distorted with glasses and one eye. Hope it gets well soon as Norm wants me to run some of the majors in here and I don’t want to unless I can see better. Met climbing party, back just in time for lunch. Gone four hours. Came back with odds and ends including army blanket made by Lexington Mills. After lunch shoved off at 1:00. Ran Sapphire wide open – quite rough, a good ride. Then numerous sharp dropping fast, hard hitting small rapids. Thought Ruby was Serpentine – landed – looked over and ran light. Entered left tongue (there were two) bore to right then left and out into eddy. Subsequently to our surprise came to Serpentine. Found it much like Ruby – not quite so hard hitting. Ran with full load.
Ruby looked like Serpentine looked last year only more so. Tongue on Serpentine was right, bearing right then left. Waves high and mean but not as bad as Ruby. After several small rapids were into Shinumo at 3:30 at head of Bass Rapid after passing under Bass cable. Found Shinumo mucky from mud washed in by high water and forming mud banks that are continually falling into stream. Mucky clear back to falls.
Water warmer than Colorado. A great disappointment – we had hoped for the clear cool water of last year. Sleeping close to water tonite. Wind Is blowing sand. Shinumo offers an ample beach and would be fine site for camp when water good. This is near location of old Bass Camp.
Had tea tonite with Boucher water. Best of trip. When Mary met me back Boucher Canyon we decided we had enough of Hermit lime tea so filled canteens. Got to discussing whole tea problem – no problem of entire trip more important – Boucher creek water had unique flavor, most admirable – noted burro signs everywhere. Then and there formed Boucher Tea Company, Limited – limited to one product – Boucher Tea Aroma de la Burro. Tonite at Shinumo proved our product. Tea brewed with just a touch of Burro – Ah!
Elves Chasm – Left Shinumo this morning at 7:50, getting up at usual hour no one knows why for we traveled only eight miles today, deliberately taking it easy. Ran Hakatai wide open. Several large rocks in center, ran right side. Good size drop, very sharp. Then came to Walthenberg at 8:30 – looked it over and decided to run all passengers. Landed on right amid rocks. Then out around large rock, with great hole below running tongue right of center – some waves as large as Soc. A great ride, sporting and long. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. After several fast ripples and much surging pulled in at Elves at 9:50. All went up and signed register. Got quite a kick out of seeing my name there from last year. We then went back stream to falls. They are simply magnificent. Joan swam pool then climbed up in back coming out and standing in a window. A nymph of the falls framed with moss and ferns and with a sun splashed pool at her feet. Not a sight I’ll forget. In afternoon went back again – swam in pool and photographed falls. Shaved – Bud photographed – Slept – Bud photographed – Erected tent and autographed ten; Mary will sketch boat and walls on one side and I will have “rat” on other – Bud photographed.
Norm told me today he would give me the Mexican Hat. Needless to say, I accepted. Nothing could please me more – a veteran to treasure. Will ship oars from Boulder and Mexican Hat later on. Tonite Elves, a minor rapid, is singing to us. This is a great place to camp except for blowing sand. Tremendous boulders line the shore. Impossible to appreciate size except by comparison – 200’ away Tro is sitting way up on one of them on a bench. Boulder seems not so large by comparison with everything else but she is lost on it. Here the Tapeats comes down to. water. We pass out of Granite and for a while are in Conquistadores Aisle then again the Granite. Mary sketched rocks and waterfalls and ferns. Saw a Prairie Falcon – Also several rats. Boats were restlessly tied to rocks in a little boulder lined cove hardly large enough for them. Rocks tower 75’ above on two sides sloping away on third with, of course, river on other side.
July 23rd – Camp up early – All but Mary – slept alone high on cliff – Got concerned and searched finding after breakfast over – still asleep so left later than expected, I spent last nite in tent for experiment – perfect – except for lack of stars would use it every night – Keeps blowing sand away of which we are having much too much as wind blows steadily this year. Mary Just passed, walking down the beach like an old Roman on parade – Many colored bathing suit, great green hat – erect carriage – Mona Lisa slight smile – or grin. Beautiful Creek – good example of pigment dyeing stream red – kick in a bit of red shale and whole stream red. River dropped last night. Left at 7:30. At 118 3/4 drifted past last year DWB – Will have trouble this year finding driftwood for initiation. No large piles, even firewood scarce due to high water.
Forster Rapid had a real punch, swinging hard against wall left, rapid long winding – no more tough than last year. Don’t know how I ever got washed overboard. Forster is a complete S. Passed Spectre Chasm with its travertine spectre against basalt at back. Bed Rock was as vicious looking as before and filled with the same chilling possibilities. The water was washing partly over center of rock with terrific current going down left side. Same hole but larger smack against side of rock. We looked over for some time then ran full going well out to center of tongue, reversing and pulling hard to right through laterals near foot of tongue, catching back surge from left laterals and riding rock surge past rock.
Easy because perfectly conceived and executed but if any mistakes are made at Bed Rock the possibilities are unpleasant. Left side graveyard not quite so bad as last year, Bed Rock at 10:50; Dubendorf at 11:30. Dubendorf was a different story. It was worse than last year with tremendous holes that could not be avoided if run full or heavy. Just a succession of holes, all foam, leading through them. Largest hole in center was an explosion hole. The worst of this type I have seen. Ran light in as close as possible to right shore and missed holes.
Mile 128 packed a real punch today, very sharp drop – a thundering hole, large waves. It was a thrill as we plunged down through center and looked over into hole as we swept by. Last rapid of day was Tapeats which we ran and pulled in at foot on right shore. As we came through in the lead we ran wide open, picked tongue but couldn’t see hole at foot of tongue till too late – we really plowed through it – everybody enjoying the dive since there were no serous hazards below and the day’s run was over anyway.
Landed and headed for glorious Tapeats Creek. Arrived 2:05. Cold – emerald green – clear – sweet – perfect, a great torrent large as Bright Angel, born in Thunder River back In the Red Wall. Pat took off upstream fishing – I’m pessimistic – I think it takes a fly – we’ll see. Took pictures, bathed in 60 degree water and washed towel and shirt – loafed and dozed. Norm will probably ship Mexican Hat from Boulder City. Sky overcast all day – rain threatening – few drops now and then – not conducive to pictures. Overcast past two and half days, conducive to low spirits in the granite. Pulled out 8:55.
July 24 – Deer Creek. Dropped down here today from Tapeats arriving 9:30
A, M. No luck last nite Pat took only four rainbow on grasshoppers – one about 15″, Nothing to equal a breakfast of Tapeats Rainbow. Two lively unnamed rapids, sharp and wet, one punching hard against rocks along left wall. Pitched tent at Deer Creek soon as we landed for Joan. She used it last nite at Tapeats where Norm and I were up often heating water. Her ear very bad infected, treated with drops and sulpha pills – hot applications, better tonite. Tent has been most useful. Did not go under falls.
No inducement from the weather and no chocolate malt bet. Some did, including Mary. Water here is perfect – taste and temperature. This afternoon Norm, Tro and I climbed to top of cliff over falls and back gorge. Falls 150’ high – gorge 150’ deep – total climb 500 to 600’ around narrow rim in places almost necessary to lean backwards. Part of trail possibly made by Pueblo Indians. Never could have made it without Norm. Went back gorge to where stream and valley meet forming a lovely oasis – great cottonwoods – Mesquite – Catsclaws – WIllows – ferns, watercress – King snake on ledge – water ouzels – cliff swallow nests – worm fossils – stem fossils. Asleep on flat rock under great cottonwood beside stream. ‘Twer paradise now, the lovliest place of all. Bud came up with movie. Had climbed up long way over hump. Last nite had to move bed twice to get out of spray from falls though several hundred feet away. Joan used tent and was practically well next A. M. My eye better but simply can’t take light or focus.
July 25 – Got away from Deer Creek at 8:00 – hated to leave Its lovely falls – Enchanted Canyon and perfect water. A lazy day – Deer Creek Rapid – Doris – Fishtail – Kanab – Olo – Matkatamiba – Upset – Sinyala. Did much idle drifting reminiscent of last year through one of the most beautiful parts of the canyon. Today and tomorrow through red wall, wide stretches that are truly grand. Passed a number of springs on right side, each with its ferns, moss and travertine. Springs. at head of Matkatamiba. Waterfall at head of Olo. With exception of Olo and Matkatamiba all rapids packed a good punch with sharp drops and good waves plus the usual surging turbulence at foot. Landed and looked up high, narrow, twisting Kanab Canyon where Powell walked out end of second trip. Ran Kanab at 9:30 wide open, tongue close to center – cut through lateral on tongue and ran slightly to right avay from wall then to left of secondary rapid at foot. Landed and looked over Upset. It was in good form with main tongue well on left, close to wall a number of holes and nearly all water leading to great hole halfway down. Ran secondary tongue on right in among rocks cutting to left to avoid projecting rocks 1/3 way down then pulling hard right to miss hole. Even though we ran far to right in among rocks we just skimmed edge of hole, force of water so great. Took quite a few pictures fisheye today and photographed following boats through Upset. Also took a good many stills while drirfing. Came out of Tapeats into red wall and Cambrian (Mauv.) Had quite a tricky landing at Havasu with water at this height – apparently 2’ to 3’ above last year. Took fast pulling to get back into Canyon without being drawn into rapid. Ran boats up Havasu to foot of first falls. This we could not do last year. It is something I had hoped to do as I wanted to boat through the narrow gorge. Arrived 3:00, swan and swam and swam and took pictures. Then stretched out in shade until the cliffs on the river were in shade then rowed out and with considerable difficulty got boats alongside cliffs. Helen appeared in camp after we had rowed out and tied to ledge. She is utterly indefatigable – as soon as we land noon or nite she is off – up a canyon or over a cilff – exploring. Her Viking ancestors seem to keep her going though I would think tropical heat would melt them down. Undoubtedly she is seeing more “geography” than any other member. Would have been an adjunct to the early exploring parties. Skin scratched, hair awry, clothes in wild disarray – she doesn’t give a hoot but keeps on going, getting a great deal from trip. Tonite sleeping on rocks where covered with 1/2″ or so of drifted sand. Sand is cooler than rock and I remember last year. My old turkish bath looks just the same. Read “Rim” and Bud photographed by light of flares. Had a good day but not a hard day. Norm’s knee is out and quite painful. Will be glad to have Dr. Jim look at my eye. Practised Tro’s new river song “Rapids Ahead” before bed – shot off flare that landed on opposite cliff behind a terrace and burned for ten minutes with a faint indirect red reflection that reminded one of an altar.
July 26 – Had a good nite’s sleep at Havasu, far different from last year. Spread sand over rocks to sleep on – much cooler. Woke to find river had risen 4″ to 6″ and was running deeper brown – I had called Norm’s attention to color night before. He believed it about time flood from San Juan arrived but that color was more indicative of Little Colorado. Pulled out 7:50. Ran Havasu Rapids – all in all an eventful but easy, restful, beautiful day. This continues to be one of the most glorious sections of Canyon with great Red Walls – alcoves, arches – temples. At mile 162 we passed the setting of last year’s naval engagement. Ran 164 1/2 rapid and Cataract Rapids. Both uneventful but interesting. Had lunch at 11:15 in same niche in sidewall of Stairway with the usual siesta following – everyone spread out in crevices. Walked back to see the stair steps. Ran through Red Slide Canyon and arriving early at Lava pulled in on right side ahead of falls in shade to wait until shade crossed river. About 5:30 we crossed with the shade, pulling in close to head. Norm and I picked a good site for camp then hurried down to look over the Big Boy. He was in rare form. Though maelstrom is the only word that fits and the holes were bigger than last year, we figured he could be run on a gamble by anyone possessing the skill and no responsibility. There was a semblance of a course entering far right, bearing left and possibly passing great hole to left. We, of course, decided to line. It was simply a matter of where and how. We could see where Harris party had portaged; a stupendous task. By dark we had picked our course and turned in early for an early rise. Overnight water came up a foot and was even redder. Early breakfast with Norm banging the skillets and then to work. First boat through in 45 min. Others about 30 minutes each. It was really a skillful job; this year I was in the thick of it. We took boats both out and around and over. Had very little to carry since we were restocking at Whitmore. Thoroughly photographed rapid. Loaded up and pulled out, running rapid at foot of Lava over against sheer wall. To Whitmore – the only rapid of any consequence was 183 though water was quite fast all the way and brought us into Whitmore at 10:50 for lunch. About 11:45 Norm and Joan started for rim to meet Doris, Dr. Jim and Barbara and John Riffey, the ranger.
When we arrived at Whitmore Wash found Pat and Merrill Bundy awaiting us with supplies. They had come down day before. We spotted their camp smoke while way up river. Had driven car forty miles from Toroweap then ridden horses 2000’ down trail – Broke drive shaft. Road virtually impassable. They run 75 head of cattle on 2400 acres including canyon. Summer range on top, winter in Canyon. Cattle coming down every two or three days for water. Whole area is known as Bundyville – father and five sons came in 1917, grew to forty families then gradually starved out – only a few left. Fabulous family especially Pat and Chet who rode log from Lava through Whitmore on 100,000 sec. ft. looking for Marston. Walked out to spring 1/2 mile up over rough, tough Lava to get us fresh water.
Doris and party walked down – Dr. Jim going back out in morning – pronounces scar on cornea which I must try to get rid of. Dr. Jim bought a horse, tent and boat to be sure he got out without walking. Swell dinner tonite, new food and lots of it – Last nite Chet and families arrived top of rim. Lighted a giant cactus atop sheer cliff of pitch black lava. Burned for hours. A never to be forgotten sight that light that blazed above the stygian wall against the starlit sky. By the time we were up in the morning Chet and family; Bundy, wives and children were down – came through on foot just to say ‘hello’ – they’re tops in my book. They will see us off in morning. This is a great break to trip. Boats will be heavy from here on in. Fine wide beach – quiet night. Whitmore but a large ripple. Horses loose and wandering hoofs clanking rocks. Bundy’s sleeping with their saddles. Tamarisks in background – sand and colored rocks at mouth of canyon and foot of trail where Bundy’s camped and great black lava wall towering over everything.
July 27 – Left Whitmore 7:50 with Bundy family on board. Ran them through Whitmore rapid and several small ripples then put them ashore. We had Mrs. Chet Bundy and daughter. Great people. She writes Bundyville news for three papers. Dr. Jim had pulled out for the rim at 5 A. M, aboard a Bundy horse with Merrill. Barbara and Doris joined us for rest of trip.
Doris and I on stern of Wen. Joan In bow. Jim had mother and wife in his boat, probably a first for river. Found the aluminum boat at Boulder Wash, mile 193 just the same. Landed and photographed. Passed by Parashont with memories of last year.
Could see where Moulty and I had made our beds. The day was uneventful, no rapids of any consequence but water fast enough to keep us moving. Scenery, of course, beyond words, though my eye was bothering me so much I missed a great deal of It. We pulled in at Spring Canyon for night – in fact, travelled so fast we arrived by noon. Great beach, lovely, cool stream flows through tamarisk. Lunched and loafed in tamarisk by stream after building dam for bathing. Nite camp on beach by boats but a few of us – Norm, Doris, Jim, Barbara, Mary and I slept downstream on wide sand bar. So cold we nearly froze. Tarp – pants – shirt – blanket, still cold. Wind blew and no sidewalls to warm It. Spring Canyon Is an Ideal place to camp. Canyon, however, virtually impassable due to underbrush growth.
July 29th left Spring Canyon at 7:55, arrived Diamond Creek 2:30. A great day – 22 miles of lovely scenery marking the return to granite and of minor sharp fast drops, each packing a punch and a thrill and of two majors 205 and 217 each a powerhouse. Spring Canyon marks mile 204 rapid which was just good fast water – 205 however was in form. It seems this one always takes a crack at someone. We ran It wide open – our boat first – sliding into tongue and over the edge of a great hole leaving It barely to left then down thru great waves, keeping them slightly to right to stay away from wall and sharp abutment 3/4 way down.
This is rapid that hit Norm last year, where hole halfway through exploded, same hole barely visible this year. Granite Park and Fall Canyon Rapids were lots of fun – sharp drops – need to exercise care to stay off wall. Granite Park well named, wide open lovely space. Saw burros. At mile 213 we passed Willow Tree Beach where we landed last year. Tree gone. Then on down through Three Spring Canyon past the bridge on right against the skyline to mile 217 where I had my greatest thrill of the second half. Doris rode through as my passenger. She was game to try it and Norm to let her do so. The rapid was in full major form, a powerful torrent, however no rocks and holes, all at head so it was just a case of hitting it right and keeping control. Waves were tremendous. We shipt quite a lot of water. However, came through in good shape, pulling out well up and drifting down to Norm. One boat had trouble, getting sideways and headed towards wall instead of away. It was a marvelous experience.
Mile 222 and 224 were rough and tough – several good holes. Plenty wet and lots of fun.
And now back home again at Diamond. Most of the large beach was gone but plenty left for a good camp. The old willow still standing and I’m writing under the shade as I did last year and with my back against the same flat stone I put there last year. There are no lizards or birds in the tree, The grasshoppers have taken over the tree even as they have everything else.
Went to bed very early – Everyone tired after a 22 mile day – such a day. This year a rarity. Watched the new moon cradled in a hollow of the rim across the river and tucked away then turned over myself and followed. At breakfast large rock to which Wen was tied gave way and crashed down where we were sitting eating. Many moved fast. Crushed Mary’s binoculars and several plates and cups. During the the night I had feared the Wen was loose and got up to see. After rock crashed she was. Could have been at night. After breakfast, Norm, Doris, Mary, Bud, Tro, Barbara and I started back to look for colored glass at old copper mine. One of Nevill’s miles away. Somebody ought to write a song about a Nevill’s mile. Norm assured us it was a mile back, no underbrush and no uphill. At about two miles we hit the underbrush just as trail started to climb; after three miles found good shade and gave up. After sun reached us we came back – Norm and I travelling last. Good walk, beautiful beyond words – lovely stream for first mile. Took pictures. These side canyons are an unknown world, each different, each magnificent, each overwhelming in its scope and tremendous girth. Back to the old willow. Grasshoppers have ravished the leaves necessitating hanging tarps for shade – and to lunch – a “sit” in pool and writing. Left Diamond 7:15. Lay awake long into nite until half moon crossed the heavens and cradled itself in a notch of the great black canyon rim. Then wondering I fell asleep.
Left Diamong July 3lst 7:15.
Mile 235 foot of Bridge Canyon Rapids ran into still water of lake. Separation and pix at 11:20.
Speed boat at Lost Creek 2:00 P. M.
F. E. Masland, Jr.
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Glossary
Shipt: Taking on water in a boat. As in “We shipt quite a lot of water.”
Line: Possibly to guide a boat using a rope anchored ahead. As in “We, of course, decided to line. It was simply a matter of where and how.”
Mexican hat: Possibly a triangular shaped wooden vessel designed to seat two people. Also a small village in southern Utah, named after a rock formation.
Tongue: The arcing flow of river as it bends over a boulder.
Hole: A resulting depression in the water where a tongue pushes the water down, creating a potential hazard for rafters.
To fisheye: Possibly to rest on one’s belly, face forward, while riding on a boat. However, it’s not clear from the descriptions he provides.